Visiting Italy's Lake District: Part XI - Bellagio West Side

On the morning of our last day at Lake Como, we all rose with anticipation.  We were at long last going to visit beautiful Bellagio, la Perla del Lago di Como (the Pearl of Lake Como).   We had been gazing at this little jewel of a city across Lake Como for days.  On our first night in Menaggio, we had been treated to a fireworks display from Bellagio.  Now, we would finally see the fabled city itself.  We boarded the little ferry that would take us across the lake, getting a look at Menaggio and the little hotel beside the lake that had provided us with such a pleasurable and pleasant stay.

Because the diesel fumes from the little ferry were overwhelming, some of us climbed to the upper platform for the brief journey.

We even got a glimpse of the church of San Martino, where we had climbed two days earlier.  Yes, that tiny fleck midway up the mountain.  We really had been there!

Some glamorous hotels greeted us as our little ferry glided up to the landing platform.

And yes, here we were, about to set foot on the little peninsula.

Bellagio is situated at the tip of a little peninsula that separates Lake Como's two southern arms and its history has largely been written by that strategic placement.  The Romans, no slouches when it came to discovering leisure, pleasure and beauty in combination, were the first to use the island as a holiday resort.  They also introduced the olive and laurel trees which even today flourish around the lake.

We arrived at the highly tourist-oriented landing on Bellagio's west side.

What is it about seeing tables set up for lunch or dinner that almost immediately whets the appetite?

Local Guide P ably guided us through the intricate passageways

and narrow streets of the beautiful little city,

all the while describing history, buildings and personalities - historical and otherwise -

along the way.

Every corner presented a photo op

and shops galore beckoned.

But we steadfastly continued our climb to the top of the hill.

Visiting Italy's Lake District: Part Xa - Cruising Lake Como

After fortifying ourselves with lunch and coffee, we browsed through some of Como's silk stores along the waterfront.  I could not resist picking out some silk scarves as gifts for family members.  But after completing the little shopping I did and strolling around the area some more, HWMBO and I decided to follow the example of some of our tour colleagues and return to Menaggio on the afternoon ferry.  So we boarded the ferry at the waterfront.

Some had purchased gelati for the return trip and looked as though they were thoroughly enjoying themselves.

Now we had a chance to see the villages between Como and Menaggio from the lake itself.

The view was not at all disappointing.  In some cases, it was spectacular

and provided a view not at all visible from the shore.

Some villages flowed down to the lake in a v-shape.

Others perched so closely to the lake edge that

it was a wonder that they were not already in the water.

We docked at several villages along the way, some tempting us to stop there at least briefly.

But we really had to get back to Menaggio by then.  Once arrived, we strolled past le Grand Hotel Menaggio

on our way back to our own hotel to pack.  Our wonderful visit was drawing to an end.  The next day, after a morning visit to Bellagio and a meal, we were scheduled to transfer to Milan to wend our various ways back to our "regular" lives.

Visiting Italy's Lake District: Part X - Como

We had enjoyed our visits to villages situated along Lake Como and in the surrounding area, but had not yet visited the city of Como itself, so our last full day in the area was devoted to rectifying that omission.  Como is situated at the southern tip of the south-west arm of Lake Como, approximately 40 kilometers (25 miles) north of Milan.  It is the administrative capital of the Province of Como.  Until the end of the 1980s, the city, known as la Città Della Seta (City of Silk), was world famous for its silk manufacturers.  Now, tourism has become very important for the local economy and we, as tourists, were there to do our part.  But first we had to get there, travelling in our trusty little bus along the narrow and very busy little lake road.

We arrived to see a bustling little city, adorned with the colorful buildings that characterize Italy's Lake District,

with old and new co-existing prosperously

and all enclosed within medieval walls.

The bus deposited us near the main square by the waterfront.

After we had refreshed ourselves from the drive, local Guide P pointed out sights of interest to the group.

Cheerful blossoms adorned balconies everywhere.

It was fun to see TV aerials and satellites sharing roof space with medieval chimneys!

One building that local Guide P pointed out to the group was la Casa del Fascio, probably the most famous work of Italian architect, Giuseppe Terragni, described as an early "landmark of modern European architecture." 

In comparison to the more graceful and esthetically pleasing architecture of previous eras, the building frankly left me cold, just as the politics and policies of the Benito Mussolini regime Terragni worked for leave me with a major frisson.   Mussolini, by the way, passed through Como on his abortive flight to Switzerland in April 1945.  He and his entourage were captured near the village of Dongo, further north.  Although the original intention had been to return them to Como to turn them over to advancing Allied Forces, they were ultimately moved to the village of Giulino di Mezzegra.  There, Mussolini, his mistress and the rest of his entourage were summarily executed.  In one of the more savage reminders of the hatred engendered by the horrors of his regime, their bodies were taken to Milan, hung on meathooks and stoned by the crowds. 

Fortunately, there were few reminders of this terrible era throughout the city as people went about their business

of generally enjoying life in their beautiful city.

More typical of the older part of the city was the architecture of the Duomo di Como (Como Cathedral),

often described as the last Gothic cathedral built in Italy, although it was not completed until 1770,

so it contains many baroque and

rococo features.

The west front dates from the 15th century

and features a rose window.

After our busy morning, we were only too happy to follow the example of others who were enjoying the open air cafes and restaurants,

and select something delicious for our midday meal.

Le Tour de France 2011 - Epoustouflant!!

Breaking away for a moment from the Italian recap, I must spend a few moments writing about the 2011 Tour de France.  The Tour de France is probably THE best known and most prestigious of the great bicycle tours.  Begun in 1903, the race can cover more than 3,600 kilometers (2,200 miles).  The map of the course changes each year, but the race always finishes in Paris and, since 1975, the climax of the final stage has occurred along the Avenue des Champs-Élysées.

This year's course covers 3,430 kilometers (2,126 miles) in 21 stages.  It began on 1 July and will finish in Paris tomorrow, 24 July.  Details of the various stages can be found at the main website here.   In recent years, the Tour has been dominated by genuine biking legends such as seven-time winner American Lance Armstrong and three-time winner Spaniard Alberto Contador.  In fact, most often by this stage in the race, the leader has built up an overwhelming lead over the pack and the final stage ride into Paris generally serves merely as a ceremonial prelude to the winner's coronation.

Not this year.  There have always been several strong candidates who have finished well in previous years but who have had a bad day or two along the way, notably Andy Schleck from Luxembourg, last year's runner-up to Contador by 39 seconds.  Others have included Andy's brother Frank, Spain's Samuel Sanchez, Australia's Cadel Evans, France's Thomas Voeckler and Kazakhstan's Alexandre Vinokourov.   Armstrong himself made one last valiant effort in 2010, to finish in 23rd place, still ahead of many younger aspirants.  But even he recognized that the younger cyclists are coming into their own and, at nearly 40, has retired since then.

Other than Vinokourov, who literally crashed out of this year's Tour after breaking a femur, and Armstrong, all of those mentioned are currently in the top seven after Stage 19 yesterday, separated by 4 minutes and 22 seconds.  Technically, it is still a race that any one of these could win.  Realistically, however, only the first four (in this order: Andy and Frank Schleck, Cadel Evans and Thomas Voeckler, who has worn the 2011 yellow jersey more often than any other rider) - separated only by two minutes and 10 seconds - and more likely only the first three, are likely to succeed.  Odds are by far the longest for Voeckler because the first three are separated by less than a minute.  The last two Alpine stages have been especially thrilling to watch, not least because of the breathtaking scenery shown on television coverage of this event, but also because of the slope of the ascents, the seemingly endless switchbacks on the climbs and the breathtakingly fast descents.  Then there are the more unruly members of the crowds at the crest of the inclines who run alongside or actually reach out and touch the riders as they pass.  Yikes!

So today's time trial in the area around Grenoble could seal the winner.  Still, if there really is not a big difference in time or points won between the first and the second place winner after today's stage, as I understand it, it may be that for the first time in many years the winner of the race may not be determined until after Stage 21 in Paris tomorrow.

So, if you want some great drama and outstanding scenery, take a few moments out of the day today to watch some of the time trials when the Tour is shown in your time zone.  I plan to and I also plan to enjoy the show very much.

*****

UPDATE:  The time trials in Grenoble are complete.  The standings are published here.  Australian Cadel Evans has won the Tour with a breathtaking time trial, edging out brothers from Luxembourg Andy and Frank Schleck, who will share the podium with him in second and third places respectively.  Frenchman Thomas Voeckler came in fourth and Alberto Contador, last year's Tour winner, came in fifth, just behind Voeckler.  But for Contador's horrible day on Thursday, he could have won the Tour once again.   Tomorrow, the riders will arrive in Paris for their triumphal laps.  All must be looking forward to a good, long rest!  I know that I would be.

Visiting Italy's Lake District: Part IXb - Villa Carlotta and Birthday Celebration

After being wonderfully sated by our delicious meal, our intrepid group was not allowed to sit on its laurels.  We were gathered up once again, albeit reluctantly on the part of some who wouldn't have minded simply staying put.  But we were bound for another short trek along the lake to the village of Tremezzo to visit the Villa Carlotta.

The Villa Carlotta dates from the early 18th century.  In the early 19th century, the romantic gardens for which it is best known came into being.  In the latter half of the 19th century, the villa was purchased by Princess Marianne of Nassau, the wife of Prince Albert of Prussia.  It was then given to their daughter, Carlotta, to celebrate her marriage to the Grand Duke of Sax-Meiningen.   Carlotta herself died at age 23, but it is by her name that we know the villa today.

The fountains, full of lily pads, provide a cooling sensation, welcome on hot days. 

Through the graceful wrought-iron gates, Lake Como glitters and gleams.

There are arbors where oranges flourish overhead,

while other plants grasp tenaciously at tiny crevices in mossy weathered walls.

A couple young women - students perhaps? - use elbow grease to clean moss from the balustrades.

I snapped a couple photos inside the villa before realizing that picture-taking was not allowed.  Apologies, but since I have them, here they are!

From the Villa Carlotta, some of us took the public bus for the return to Menaggio, others stayed for the full tour of the famous gardens and still others of the hardiest hikers walked back to Menaggio along the lakeside.  Even then, the days events were not finished.  It was Guide K's birthday, so the hotel offered complimentary champagne and cake to all of us!

As you can believe, we all enjoyed the event very, very much!