12 May 2010

Combats de reines

If there is one animal in Switzerland that is venerated above all others, it has to be the cow.  Cows in this country have to be among the best tended cattle anywhere in the world, and there is good reason for that.  It is, after all, milk from cows that is used in making the very pungent and well-known Swiss cheeses such as Emmental and Gruyère, each named after the region where it is produced.  In fact, Switzerland is home to about 450 varieties of cheese.   Charles de Gaulle once famously asked, "How can anyone govern a nation that has two hundred and forty-six different kinds of cheeses?"  But that was some time ago.  De Gaulle's number was paltry in comparison to Switzerland's and has even been superseded for France, which now proudly boasts more than 1,000 varieties of cheese.
In Switzerland, more than 99 percent of the cheeses are made from cows' milk.  Goats' milk and sheeps' milk account for the tiny one percent remaining.  So yes, the cow is the Queen of beasts here.  Also, each herd of cows has a Queen Cow, who makes it quite clear to the rest that she is in charge.  Generally, this is done without too much fuss because most cows are fairly placid, live-and-let-live sorts.  In the Swiss canton of Valais, however, things are different.  In the Valais, there is a distinctive breed of dark brown or black cattle known as the Herens, named for the Val d'Hérens region.  These cows are slightly more aggressive and, although small, are robustly muscular.  Thus, some uniquely Swiss sporting events that can be found in the Valais each year are les combats de reines (Cow fights).   They have become major tourist draws as well.
Cow-fighting is an ancient tradition in Switzerland, although the first organized fight was not held until 1923.   The fights are hardly bloody events.  The cows may paw their feet, bellow and move towards their opponents in a threatening manner, but all that happens if the challenge is met is that they lock horns, push and shove each other until one gives way.  Injuries are rare and often a cow will decide simply not to participate.  In that case, she is allowed to leave the ring.  There are five classes of competition, based on age and weight.  The cows begin with the organized combats at age three and are retired at 11.  There is no special feeding or training regimen.  In the summer, they graze in Alpine pastures and produce milk.  In winter, they are kept in barns like all other breeds.  They are also non-threatening to humans.

This year, the winner of the cantonal final in Aproz was "Altesse" (Her Highness).  According to this report, her final with "Manathan," the defending Queen, was an epic battle.  Altesse was not expected to win because she was not one of the seasoned veterans, being under five years of age and only having given birth to one calf.  After more than half-an-hour, both owners actually began walking toward their animals to separate them, but were roundly hissed and booed by the crowd.  So the humans backed off and let the animals do their thing.  Neither was injured, but both were battle-weary at the end.
Having one's cow crowned "Queen" is a feather in her breeder's cap.  Not only does he receive a prize cowbell suspended on a hand-worked leather collar, but also can receive a CHF 5,000 premium for each future calf.   She gets to wear the new bell and, as the triumphant leader of the herds when the cows head up to their summer pastures, wears a floral crown and wreath.

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