24 May 2010

Whit Monday and the "Transhumance"

In addition to memories of good food, good wine and good friends, thinking about the 2007 reunion in Saint Remy-de-Provence also brings back memories of the "Fête de la Transhumance " that is traditionally held there on Whit Monday (aka Pentecost Monday).  "Transhumance" in its most general sense refers to seasonal movements of livestock, generally from lower to higher pastures in summer and from higher pastures to the plains in winter.

Saint Remy-de-Provence is situated in the rocky, hilly region of southern France known as the Alpilles.  To celebrate the Transhumance, thousands of sheep are trucked to Saint-Remy (they used to be herded on foot and the walk could take up to ten days), together with goats, donkeys, shepherds and sheep dogs.  There, the whole lot parades twice around the town center in the morning and then officially moves up to higher pastures.  In the afternoon, there is a demonstration of how the sheep dogs work, a community barbecue and traditional dancing.  It goes without saying that lots of wine and other spirits also flow there.

While I wasn't able to stay for the afternoon festivities, needing to hie myself back to Geneva and my workplace the next day, I was able to see the parade.  Our group had a wonderful vantage point, being ensconced in an apartment right at the point where the flocks enter and leave the village.  Here is the "before" view.
Hark, are those sheep that I see?
Yes, I definitely see a few sheep there.
Indeed, I see quite a few sheep there.
Wow, glad that I'm up high - just in case those sheep turn surly.
They just keep coming ... and coming - a veritable ocean of fleece.
Here they're coming round, just about to turn for their second loop.
Ah now, I begin to understand how they can tell which sheep belong to whom.  There are markings on their backs.
These gals, dressed in traditional costume, don't seem too concerned about maintaining a quick pace.
And there they go.  Off to the afternoon's festivities and then to their summer pastures.
It doesn't take long at all.  The village center isn't all that large.  But the parade is great fun to see.

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