28 June 2010

Les Vaches et nous

Following our lively evening in Champagny-en-Vanoise and an overnight punctuated by literal torrents of rain, we awoke to an all-pervasive mist that hid the mountains around us so that we could - almost - have believed that we were back in the Lake Geneva region.  But once we opened the windows, the fresh mountain air with its scents of evergreen resins reassured us that we were indeed in the higher elevations.

Once we had gotten ourselves sorted, Sweet V announced that she wanted to show us Champagny-le-Haut (Upper Champagny), the half of the village that is located even higher up than we already were.  For an idea of what she meant, here is what one part of the road looks like.  We were also assured by Sweet V that where the cloud cover and mist show here, there are indeed high mountains.  So this is only part of the big picture.
The afternoon before, when we had begun our climb to Champagny, we had somehow found ourselves just behind a large truck transporting cattle.  Other drivers, more accustomed to the road, passed fearlessly by both the truck and us on the narrow switchbacks.  But I was much more cautious and too fearful of a) going over the edge and b) hitting an approaching car head on so we proceeded quite slowly until the truck left the road that we were using.  The next day we discovered that there was, in fact, an alternate way to get to Champagny that was much shorter and not quite so tortuous.  We had managed to miss the first turn-off.

The cattle truck should have been a clue.  After all, why would a truck be transporting cattle UP a mountain?  Thus, on our way to Champagny-le-Haut, it was hardly surprising to discover ourselves once again following cattle, this time sans truck, as they continued along their way to the high summer pastures.  The truck had continued as far as it could but finally the road had become too narrow.  We had, all unwittingly become part of the procession.
Following the cattle, eerie in the morning mist, was even slower than following the truck.  But they clearly had the right of way and were in no hurry.  So we continued patiently, enjoying the bits of scenery that we could actually see.  After a time, the cattle deviated from our road long enough for us to get around them and we continued along our way.  We stopped here in order to walk into the lower hut area, just below the winter ski slopes.  Hold this picture for a moment.  It is a picnic and playground area in front of a local restaurant.
And here come the cattle again.  They look quite serene and well-mannered, don't they?
Uh, oh - the first sign of danger.  They're veering off the road.
They're now in the picnic area - and all around Friend G and me - and they are BIG.  Just look at those muscles!
They're now starting to veer back.  Now just why did they take that detour?  To make a point?  For a photo op?
For whatever reason, they have decided to return to the road.  Thank heavens!
And their drovers look greatly relieved.
The restaurant owner was NOT happy.  But all's well that ends well.

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