24 July 2011

Visiting Italy's Lake District: Part X - Como

We had enjoyed our visits to villages situated along Lake Como and in the surrounding area, but had not yet visited the city of Como itself, so our last full day in the area was devoted to rectifying that omission.  Como is situated at the southern tip of the south-west arm of Lake Como, approximately 40 kilometers (25 miles) north of Milan.  It is the administrative capital of the Province of Como.  Until the end of the 1980s, the city, known as la Città Della Seta (City of Silk), was world famous for its silk manufacturers.  Now, tourism has become very important for the local economy and we, as tourists, were there to do our part.  But first we had to get there, travelling in our trusty little bus along the narrow and very busy little lake road.

We arrived to see a bustling little city, adorned with the colorful buildings that characterize Italy's Lake District,

with old and new co-existing prosperously

and all enclosed within medieval walls.

The bus deposited us near the main square by the waterfront.

After we had refreshed ourselves from the drive, local Guide P pointed out sights of interest to the group.

Cheerful blossoms adorned balconies everywhere.

It was fun to see TV aerials and satellites sharing roof space with medieval chimneys!

One building that local Guide P pointed out to the group was la Casa del Fascio, probably the most famous work of Italian architect, Giuseppe Terragni, described as an early "landmark of modern European architecture." 

In comparison to the more graceful and esthetically pleasing architecture of previous eras, the building frankly left me cold, just as the politics and policies of the Benito Mussolini regime Terragni worked for leave me with a major frisson.   Mussolini, by the way, passed through Como on his abortive flight to Switzerland in April 1945.  He and his entourage were captured near the village of Dongo, further north.  Although the original intention had been to return them to Como to turn them over to advancing Allied Forces, they were ultimately moved to the village of Giulino di Mezzegra.  There, Mussolini, his mistress and the rest of his entourage were summarily executed.  In one of the more savage reminders of the hatred engendered by the horrors of his regime, their bodies were taken to Milan, hung on meathooks and stoned by the crowds. 

Fortunately, there were few reminders of this terrible era throughout the city as people went about their business

of generally enjoying life in their beautiful city.

More typical of the older part of the city was the architecture of the Duomo di Como (Como Cathedral),

often described as the last Gothic cathedral built in Italy, although it was not completed until 1770,

so it contains many baroque and

rococo features.

The west front dates from the 15th century

and features a rose window.

After our busy morning, we were only too happy to follow the example of others who were enjoying the open air cafes and restaurants,

and select something delicious for our midday meal.

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